哥本哈根特写

 Are you too old for fairy tales? If you think so, Copenhagen is sure to change your mind.

　　你是否已经老得不再适合听童话了？如果你这么认为，哥本哈根必然能够改变你的想法。

　　See the city first from the water. In the harbor sits Denmark's best-known landmark: the Little Mermaid. Remember her? She left the world of the Sea People in search of a human soul in one of Hans Christian Andersen's beloved fantasies. From the harbor you can get a feel for the attractive "city of green spires." At twilight or in cloudy weather, the copper-covered spires of old castles and churches lend the city a dream-like atmosphere. You'll think you've stepped into a watercolor painting.

　　要看这座城市，先从水看起。在港口处有丹麦最有名的路标：小美人鱼。记得她吗？在安徒生诸多受欢迎的幻想故事中的其中一个故事，她离开了海底世界，想变成一个真正的人类。自这个港口你可以領略到这迷人的「绿色塔尖之城」的魅力。在微光中或是阴天时，那些被铜覆盖的旧堡垒和教堂的塔尖为这个城市带來了梦一般的气氛。你会以为自己走进了一幅水彩画之中。

　　Copenhagen is a city on a human scale. You don't have to hurry to walk the city's center in less than an hour. Exploring it will take much longer. But that's easy. Copenhagen was the first city to declare a street for pedestrians only. The city has less traffic noise and pollution than any other European capital.

　　哥本哈根是一个很容易游览的城市。你不必赶在一小时以內将市中心走完。探险会花上更长的时间。但是那也很容易。哥本哈根是第一个划出行人徒步区的城市。这个城市的交通噪音和污染比起欧洲其他国家的首都来都要轻。

　　Stroll away from the harbor along the riverbanks. You'll see the modest Amalienborg Palace first. Completed in the mid-18th century, it still houses the royal family. The Danish Royal Guard is on duty. At noon, watch the changing of the guard. The guards are not just for show, however. Danes will always remember their heroism on April 9, 1940. When the Nazis invaded Denmark, the guards, outnumbered 30 to 1, aimed their guns and fired. Soldiers fell on both sides. The guards would all have been killed if the king hadn't ordered them to surrender.

　　自港口沿著河岸漫步，你会先看到那外观并不起眼的阿马林堡皇宫。于十八世纪中完工，皇室家族仍然住在这里。丹麦皇家卫队仍然在执行任务。中午时，可以观赏卫兵交接。但这些卫兵不是只能表演。丹麦人永远记得他们在1940年4月9日的英勇事迹。当纳粹入侵丹麦，这些卫兵，以一比三十悬殊之数，瞄准了枪然后开火。双方的士兵都有伤亡。如果国王没有叫他们投降的话，他们大概全都死了。

　　Churches and castles are almost all that remain of the original city. Copenhagen became the capital of Denmark in 1445. During the late 16th century, trade grew, and so did the city. But fires in 1728 and 1795 destroyed the old wooden structures. Much of what we see today dates from the 19th and early 20th centuries.

　　教堂与古堡大概是原来的古城所遗留下来的唯一的东西。哥本哈根于1445年成为丹麦的首都。在十六世纪末期，贸易发展，同时也带动此城发展。但是1728年和1795年间的大火烧毀了城中旧的木造建筑物。今日大部份我们所看到的都是在十九世纪和二十世纪初所建造的。

　　See one of the spires up close-really close-at the 17th-century Church of Our Savior. Brave souls may climb the 150 stairs winding outside the spire to its top. If you're afraid of heights, or if it's a windy day, you can forget the climb. But then you'll miss the magnificent view.

　　仔细的看看其中一个塔尖──真正靠近地看──这所十七世纪所建的我们的救世主教会。勇敢的人可能会爬上那蜿蜒在尖塔外直通塔顶的一百五十层阶梯。如果你恐高，或者当天风很大，那就不用爬了。但是，你会因此错过那壮丽无比的景观。

　　Once the earth is firmly under your feet again (you'll enjoy the feeling), cross the nearest bridge to Castle Island. The curious yet majestic-looking spire ahead tops the oldest stock exchange in Europe, built in 1619. Its spire is formed from the entwined tails of three dragons. They represent Denmark, Sweden and Norway.

　　当你又再次稳稳地踏在土地上（你会喜欢这种感觉的），通过最近的桥到城堡岛。前方有个1619年建造的欧洲最古老的股市交易中心，上面有个奇特又壮观的塔尖。它的塔尖乃是三只互相缠绕的龙尾巴。它们代表的是丹麦、瑞典和挪威。

　　Keep going, to the Christiansborg Palace. The town of Copenhagen began here. Stop and visit the medieval castle. Parliament and the Royal Reception Chambers are open, too. Then continue to Nyhavn, a narrow waterway dug by soldiers in 1673. You'll understand why Hans Christian Andersen made this charming waterway his home. A specially-built mirror outside his apartment window allowed him to peek unseen at the world outside.

　　继续往前走到克里森堡宫。哥本哈根始自此处。停下来游览这个中世纪的古堡。议院和皇家接待室也同样开放，然后继续往尼哈芬走去，它是在1673年由一群士兵挖成的狭窄水道。你会明白为什么汉斯克里森·安徒生把这个迷人的水道当成他自己的家。在他公寓窗戶外的一面特殊的镜子，让他能够不被外面察觉而看到外面的世界。

　　Nyhavn is peaceful, an ideal place for lingering and people-watching. You'll usually see them dressed casually, though they are among Europe's affluent people. Danes are taught not to stand out in a crowd. But they do know how to party, especially during holidays.

　　尼哈芬是个宁静的地方，它也是个逗留和观看人群的绝佳之处。虽然他们是欧洲最有钱的人，但是你通常都会看到他们穿得很普通。丹麦人所受的教育是避免与众不同。但是他们却很擅长玩乐，特別是在假日的时候。

　　To see them having fun, and to have some fun yourself, cross Andersens Boulevard and enter Tivoli Gardens. You won't be alone. More than five million people a year come here. They come to dance, dine, take in outdoor and indoor concerts, see ballets and laugh at the mimes. One tip: Bring a lot of money. Some of the more than 20 restaurants are among the city's most expensive. Even without money, you can still enjoy the proud old trees, the colored night lights and the beautiful gardens. You might feel as if you are in a fairy tale.

　　看他们欢乐，你自己也可以享受，走过安德森大道进入提弗利花园。不是只有你来此地，每年有超过五百万的人到此处。他们来这里跳舞、吃饭、欣赏戶外和室內音乐会，看芭蕾舞表演，并且观看笑剧而开心大笑。给你一个建议：带很多钱去。有二十家左右的餐厅是本城里最昂贵的。即使没有钱，你仍可以享受那些傲人的老树，色彩缤纷的夜色，以及美丽的花园。你可能会以为自己身在一则童话故事当中。